More than two decades ago, Donald Griffin's The Question of Animal Awareness permitted studies of animal mentality to come out of the closet. But despite two decades of discussion the question of just how much we can know about the minds of nonhuman animals remains mired in controversy. To philosophers and scientists alike, the deepest challenge remains that of understanding the nature of animal consciousness -- if there be any such thing. I'll explore the borderline between asking what it's like to be a bat, and asking whether it's like anything to be a bat. While the former question has captured the imagination of scientists and philosophers alike, I'll attempt to show how the latter question provides a more tractable starting point for our attempts to understand the evolution of consciousness.